Choosing The Right Replacement Barrier Gate Arm - All You Need to Know | All Security Equipment

Barrier arms get hit. A delivery truck clips one, a driver tailgates through a closing cycle, and the arm is on the ground while the operator underneath is perfectly fine. Replacing just the arm is the cheap outcome, provided you order one that fits.

Two separate things decide the order. The operator settles how the arm mounts, and the lane settles how long it has to be. Get either one wrong and the arm will not fit or will not reach.

The operator decides how the arm mounts

Barrier arm length and counterweight are matched to the specific operator's rated capacity. The mount plate can adapt across brands, but the arm's weight and reach still need to fall within what the operator is balanced to handle. Settle the mount at the operator, then measure the lane for length.

  • Find the operator model plate. It is on the cabinet, usually inside the door. FAAC B680H, DoorKing 1601 and LiftMaster TECHNA each take their own arms.

  • Check the arm length the operator is rated for. An operator balanced for a 12 foot arm will struggle with a 23 foot one, and the spring or counterweight has to be reset if you change length.

  • Confirm the mount. Some arms bolt to a plate, others slide into a clamp. A 12 foot arm for one brand will not mount on another brand's operator even at identical length.

If the operator itself took damage as well as the arm, the gate operators range covers replacements.

The lane decides the length

The old arm may have been the wrong size to begin with. Measure the clear opening you need to block, then add the distance from the operator cabinet to the edge of the lane.

A standard single lane runs about 10 to 12 feet, which is why most catalog arms cluster there. Wider commercial approaches and two lane entries need 14 feet and up, and anything past about 20 feet moves into kit territory with a support wheel or a folding section. Longer arms also cycle slower, because the operator has more mass to move and stop safely.

Material and shape

  • Aluminum: the common choice. Rigid, light enough to cycle fast, and it dents rather than shatters when struck.

  • Fiberglass and composite: more forgiving on impact and better in coastal air where aluminum corrodes at the fixings.

  • Plastic: used on lighter parking units such as the DoorKing 1601 arms. Cheapest to replace, which matters where strikes are frequent.

  • Round, square or rectangular: square and rectangular sections resist twisting over long spans, round sections shed wind load better. On anything over about 14 feet, section shape matters more than material.

border control entry barriers

Lighted arms and why they pay for themselves

An LED arm is visible from further back and at a worse angle than a striped one, which is the whole point in a lane that runs at night or in fog. Fewer strikes means fewer replacements, and the arm is rarely the most expensive thing a driver damages.

Our own 12 foot universal LED lighted arm is $199.00 as a two-piece, and the TECHNA LED arm covering 11 feet is also $199.00. The LiftMaster TECHNA 14 foot arm with LED runs $259.00 Against a plain FAAC rectangular arm at $176.99, the lighting premium is small on the short spans.

Thanks to the sectional design, these arms also save on shipping compared to a single-piece arm of the same length, and the same design makes them easy to store so you have a replacement handy when one is needed.

What replacement arms cost

  • Short and plain, $176.99 to $211.99: FAAC rectangular arms at $176.99, the FAAC S arm for the B680H at $189.99, and the DoorKing 12 foot plastic square arm for the 1601 at $211.99.

  • Lighted, around $199.00: the ASE 12 foot universal LED arm and the TECHNA LED arm at 11 foot coverage, both supplied as two pieces.

  • Long spans, $533.99 to $904.99: the LiftMaster TECHNA 14 foot LED arm at $533.99, and the FAAC 23 foot L arm kit for the B680H at $904.99.

Everything above sits in the barrier gate arms collection, and the operators they fit are in parking systems. For the wider comparison between arms and other vehicle barriers, see our bollards versus barriers guide.

parking entrance

Arm direction and which side it swings from

Barrier operators are handed. The cabinet sits on the left or the right of the lane as you face oncoming traffic, and the arm has to be mounted for that side. Order the wrong hand and the arm rises into the lane it was meant to protect.

Most modern operators can be reversed on site, but it is a mechanical job inside the cabinet rather than a setting, and on some models it means moving the spring to the opposite mounting point. Confirm the hand before the arm ships, because a cut-to-length arm cannot be returned once it has been trimmed.

Two arms facing each other across a divided entry and exit is the other common layout. Those are ordered as a pair with opposite hands, and it is worth writing down which cabinet took which arm the first time, because the next replacement is usually years later and nobody remembers.

Skirts, foam and articulated sections

The arm itself is often not the only part on the order.

  • Skirts: the hanging panel below the arm. It makes the barrier far more visible to a driver approaching low and fast, and it discourages pedestrians from ducking under. It also adds wind load, which matters on exposed sites.

  • Foam sleeves and edge protection: cheap, and they turn a paint scrape into nothing on car parks with tight geometry. Worth fitting anywhere valets or delivery drivers use the lane daily.

  • Articulated or folding arms: used where there is a low ceiling or a canopy the arm would hit at full height. The arm folds at a hinge partway along instead of rising to vertical. Measure your headroom before assuming a straight arm fits.

  • Support wheels: fitted at the free end of very long arms to carry the weight when lowered. Anything past roughly 20 feet usually needs one, and the wheel needs a level surface to run on.

Power, speed and how often the arm cycles

Two operators can take the same arm and give completely different service life, because the duty cycle is doing the work rather than the arm.

A gated community entrance might cycle a few dozen times a day. A hospital staff car park at shift change does that in an hour. High cycle counts want a continuous duty operator and an arm chosen for low mass rather than maximum length, since every extra foot is extra inertia the operator starts and stops thousands of times a week.

Opening speed follows the same logic. A three second cycle sounds better than six until you fit a 20 foot arm and the operator starts tripping its own force limit. If throughput is the problem, a shorter arm on a narrower lane usually beats a faster motor on a wide one.

Crash rated is a different product

A standard barrier arm controls traffic. It is designed to break instead of stopping a vehicle, because an arm that resisted a car would injure the driver. If your requirement is stopping a vehicle rather than telling it to wait, an arm is the wrong product and you need a crash rated barrier or a wedge, which is engineered and rated to a standard.

Buying a heavier arm in the hope it will stop something is the mistake to avoid. It will not, and it will wear the operator out doing it.

Frequently asked questions

Are barrier gate arms universal?

No. The mounting plate, bolt pattern and the counterweight the operator is balanced for are specific to the operator model. A 12 foot arm for a DoorKing 1601 will not mount on a FAAC B680H even though both are 12 feet. Start from the operator model plate inside the cabinet and order the arm listed for it.

What length barrier arm do I need?

Measure the clear opening you need to block and add the distance from the operator cabinet to the lane edge, rather than copying the old arm, which may have been wrong. Single lanes usually land between 10 and 12 feet. Wide commercial approaches need 14 feet or more, and spans past about 20 feet need a kit with a support wheel or folding section.

How much does a replacement barrier gate arm cost?

Plain arms run $176.99 to $211.99, covering the FAAC rectangular arms, the FAAC S arm for the B680H and the DoorKing 12 foot plastic square arm. LED lighted arms are around $199.00 for 11 to 12 foot coverage. Long spans cost more: $533.99 for the LiftMaster TECHNA 14 foot LED arm and $904.99 for the FAAC 23 foot L arm kit.

Aluminum or fiberglass barrier arm?

Aluminum is the default. It is rigid, light enough to cycle quickly and it dents instead of shattering. Fiberglass and composite absorb impact better and hold up in coastal air where aluminum corrodes at the fixings. On lighter parking units, plastic arms are cheapest to replace, which matters where strikes happen often.

Will a barrier arm stop a vehicle?

No, and it is not meant to. A barrier arm signals a vehicle to wait and is designed to break on impact so it does not injure the occupants. If the requirement is physically stopping a vehicle, you need a crash rated barrier or a wedge barrier engineered and rated for that job. Fitting a heavier arm will not achieve it and will wear the operator out.

Do I need to rebalance the operator after changing the arm?

Yes, if the new arm is a different length or weight. The operator is balanced with a spring or counterweight matched to the arm it left the factory with. Changing length without resetting that balance makes the operator work harder in one direction, which shortens its life and can trip the safety reverse.

tracks barrier railings level crossing

Start at the operator plate

Every wasted barrier arm order starts with someone measuring the old arm instead of reading the operator model plate. Find the plate, note the model, measure the lane, then choose length and material. If the lane runs at night, the lighted version costs very little extra and gets hit less often, which is the only saving that actually shows up on next year's maintenance bill.